HomePastaCiel Bleu** (2023) – Stefan's Gourmand Weblog

Ciel Bleu** (2023) – Stefan’s Gourmand Weblog

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I wished to deal with my buddy Sebas for his birthday and permit him to expertise a two-start Michelin restaurant for the primary time in his life. Since I had not been to Ciel Bleu in a very long time (the final time was in 2012, examine it right here) and I assumed it was the type of restaurant he would really like, so that’s the place we went. The restaurant is positioned on the twenty third flooring of the Okura resort, with an impressive view of downtown Amsterdam. The restaurant of chef Arjan Speelman has held two Michelin stars since 2007, though there was a special chef again then and once I visited in 2012. The 8 course Ciel Bleu Expertise menu (215 euros) will be upgraded with a further lobster course (45 euros), a further wagyu A5 course (90 euros), and cheese (6 euros per alternative). I couldn’t resist ordering the lobster and the deluxe wine pairing (320 euros for 7 glasses).

We began off with a really good rosé champagne that was made by the winemaker of Penfolds and with a excessive share of pinot meunier (60%). This champagne was dry however properly fruity on the similar time.

There have been solely 2 amuse bouche, however each had been small taste explosions. The primary crispy and fruity…

…and the second tacky with salted lemon. The champagne was additionally paired with the primary two programs of the tasting menu.

First course: uncooked carabinero shrimp with ajo blanco (Spanish chilly almond soup) with Spanish smoked paprika, bisque oil, grape, vermouth, and plankton.

Second course: an oyster with Baerii caviar, totally different buildings of cucumber, and juniper berry. A pleasant distinction between the contemporary and crunchy cucumber and the creamy and salty caviar and oyster.

The primary wine of the pairing was a Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2019, fairly highly effective with great minerality and stability. An excellent wine and a promising begin of the pairing.

The Puligny was an enough pairing for the chef’s signature dish of uncooked bluefin tuna, marinated in aged soy sauce, with Oscietra caviar, and konbu and yuzu. Based on the (Italian) sommelier Niccolò, this dish was very laborious to pair.

Subsequent was a Meursault Perrières 1er cru 2018 by Albert Grivault, extra elegant and extra complicated than the Puligny, and once more a superb wine.

It was a superb pairing for what was in all probability my favourite dish of the menu: lobster with an Indian (Tandoori) curry, kohlrabi, and only a tiny quantity of rhubarb. The lobster had been cooked sous vide for less than 6 minutes at 75C/167F and I actually appreciated the feel, so that’s one thing I want to strive (it is a a lot shorter time, however a lot greater temperature than I’d usually use for lobster sous vide).

Subsequent was a Riesling Model Grand Cru 2018 by Domaine Zind Humbrecht, complicated, balanced, and dry, with only a contact of residual sugar (5.6 grams/litre).

This was a very good pairing with the turbot with peas, seaweed butter, and a saffron sauce. The turbot had an ideal texture and this was a really elegant dish. Niccolò talked about that the saffron was laborious to pair with, however that the residual sugar within the Riesling did the trick (with out making the wine style candy in any respect).

The following wine was Coulée de Serrant 2018, certainly one of solely three wines in France with its personal appellation. This was a Chenin Blanc in a wealthy and mineral fashion that was properly developed regardless of the fairly latest classic.

This was paired with sea bass with razor clams, turnips, and a bisque sauce. The razor clams had been remarkably tender and the bisque sauce had nice depth of taste with out being too overwhelming. The turnips didn’t work nicely with the wine, which can have been exacerbated by my disaffinity with bitterness.

The one purple of the pairing was a Volnay 1er cru Les Caillerets 2016 by Henry Boillot, very mineral and chic with some minty notes.

The wine labored very nicely with the marjoram-stuffed morels, but in addition with the rack of lamb. The portion of lamb was very beneficiant (three items), in distinction to the tiny portion of white asparagus. The lamb was tender and completely medium uncommon.

We determined to have only a smalla mount of cheese from the great cheese cart.

Niccolò talked about that this Mitis Amigne de Vétroz Réserve 2013 by Jean-René Germanier from Valais in Switzerland was his favourite dessert wine. I can perceive, as a result of this was actually outstanding with nice complexity and so many alternative aromas. This wine was made out of an area selection referred to as Amigne, which I had by no means tasted earlier than.

It was a very good pairing for the blue cheese, particularly the tender however pungent Danish blue cheese.

The primary dessert wine was a 2016 Erdener Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein by Dr Hermann from the Mosel in Germany, properly balanced between sweetness and acidity.

This was a superb pairing with the dessert with tangerine, matcha, anise, and batak berry. Each wine and dessert had been very refreshing (however not fairly a palate cleanser).

The ultimate wine was a Château Rieussec Sauternes 1er Grand Cru 2003. As a result of heat classic, the wine was extra developed and fewer contemporary than is common for a Sauternes of round 20 years outdated.

A brisker/youthful Sauternes (and maybe with a better share of Sauvignon) would have been a greater pairing for the dessert with inexperienced apple and celery.

But it surely was a very good pairing with the vanilla ice cream with pecans and Frysian whiskey.

We ended the meal with espresso or tea and a really good strawberry tartlet.

This was a beautiful meal with excellent (however dear) wines. The service was nice and never as formal as I remembered from my earlier go to to Ciel Bleu. For me there was the extra pleasure of observing Sebas having fun with himself so intensely.



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